4mm. scale locomotive components by Alan Gibson, 10 November 2005

LOCOMOTIVE WHEELS

Steam locomotive driving, bogie and tender wheels

Diesel/electric locomotive driving and bogie wheels

My extensive range of locomotive driving, bogie and tender wheels has been carefully selected to meet the needs of most modellers and although each wheel has been scaled from a specific prototype many will be found to be representative of numerous other types. On average the tyre on a prototype wheel was allowed to wear to -2½ " of its nominal diameter before being replaced and in selecting the range of tyre diameters I have taken this wear factor into account. Modellers can, therefore, confidently choose a wheel whose diameter is within 2½ " of the prototype's stated size in the almost certain knowledge that it was in that condition some time during its life.
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STEAM LOCOMOTIVE DRIVING WHEELS

ALL steam locomotive driving wheel types are available for 00, EM or P4 gauges and have black injection moulded centres which are pressed into steel tyres that have been machined to each gauges recommended profile. The tyres are left in bright metal and no balance weights are fitted. 
The wheels are sold in packs containing two wheels with either an 00 axle plus an EM axle or just a P4 axle. Those wheels which are designated 'OC' in the 'CR' column are designed for use with outside cranks and these wheels are packed with two outside crank mouldings and a specially extended axle. All axles supplied with my steam locomotive driving wheels are 1/8" in diameter and are manufactured from precision ground steel and machined to the correct length and also left in a bright metal finish. 
Under the column in the listings headed 'Rim' a plain rim usually indicates a pre-1930 wheel while a bevelled rim, also known as a Stanier. denotes a later style of wheel in which the spokes are flared into a heavily bevelled rim. This latter type of wheel was mostly fitted to ex-LMS locomotives and also to the later British Railways standard classes. 
The column headed 'CP' (crank pin) has three different notations, explained as follows:

IL indicates a wheel with its crank pin boss in line with the spokes:
PB indicates a wheel with its crank pin boss between the spokes: and
OC indicates a wheel with no crank pin boss for locomotives fitted with outside cranks.

The column headed 'Throw; indicates the crank pin throw and the succeeding column gives the scale equivalent. It's amazing what a difference the correct amount of throw makes when the locomotive is moving!

When ordering it is very important to quote the item code together with the full prototype description of the wheels and, most important, the gauge required.  To order wheels for P4 gauge the second digit in the code should be changed to an 'S' (eg 4S55) failure to do this will ensure you recieve 00/EM. The price is for two wheels and axle(s) as indicated.

Wheels suitable for converting Bachmann Blue Riband or Hornby locos to EM or P4 are available with 3mm axles in sets as as indicated in the separate list.

Now go to the list and choose your wheels.

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Quartering - the easy way!

It appears from the occasional letter that I receive that a few people are still encountering problems in quartering the type of driving wheels which are a push fit on their axles. it is not really as difficult as it appears - just a matter of approaching the task in a logical manner. Let's take a simple six-coupled chassis.

First, fit the rear pair of driving wheels in the frames and position the left hand wheel with the crank pin at the the top. Now, holding the left hand wheel in this position adjust the right hand wheel so that its crank pin is pointing towards the front of the locomotive. Precise quartering at this stage is not essential.

Now fit the centre pair of wheels in much the same manner and match the quartering of the rear axle by eye. Fit the coupling rods to these two axles and test. At this stage you'II probably find that everything is all right.

Lastly, fit the front pair of wheels and quarter by eye as before. Refit the coupling rods to all three axles and test run, If any binding occurs adjust the front axle only, do not touch the other two. The chassis worked as an 0-4-0 so the binding must be occurring on the last wheel set. That's all there is to it!

If you have an eight- or ten-coupled chassis proceed the same as above, adding one axle at a time - always adjusting the last wheelset you have fitted, and you will find that in the time you have taken to read this you could have your locomotive running.

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DIESEL AND ELECTRIC LOCOMOTIVE WHEELS

For the modern image modeller I produce a small range of diesel and electric locomotive wheels which cover a fair number of British Rail classes. Specification is the same as for the steam locomotive driving wheels, i.e. highly detailed plastic injection centres fitted into bright steel tyres. All wheels, including the diesel and electric bogie wheels, are supplied ex-stock with 1/8" diameter axles.  Alternative axle diameters, eg 2mm can be supplied to special order.  The wheels for Classes 08/09 are supplied with the outside cranks.

Wheels suitable for converting Bachmann Blue Riband, Heljan or Hornby locos to EM or P4 are available with appropriate axles in sets as as indicated in the separate list.

Now go to the list and choose your wheels.

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STEAM LOCOMOTIVE BOGIE AND TENDER WHEELS

TO complement my steam locomotive driving wheels I also produce my own comprehensive range of locomotive bogie and tender wheels They have all been scaled from prototype examples and they have high detailed injection moulded centres fitted into steel tyres which are left in bright metal. All bogie and tender wheels are available in 00. EM and P4 gauges and they are sold in packs containing two wheels together with inside and outside bearing axles. Please remember to specify gauge when ordering! If ordering for P4 gauge then alter the second digit of the code to an 'S' (eg 4S36 or 4S51) other than this they will be supplied for 00/EM as standard.
Now go to the list and choose your wheels.

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LOCOMOTIVE DRIVING WHEEL CRANKPINS

WHILE the locomotive driving wheels were under development I was also addressing the problem of a suitable crankpin. The eventual design utilises just three component parts and is manufactured in steel for prototypical appearance and strength. Although primarily designed for use with my own driving wheels they can, with a little effort, be used with other makes of wheel. My own wheels have a hole of the correct size moulded in but if this does need to be opened out a No. 70 (0.70mm.) drill should be used. A slight countersink should be made on the back of the wheel and the Ml screws supplied will then form their own thread when screwed in from the back of the wheel. This method also works with other makes of plastic centred wheels, but for wheels with cast metal centres the crankpin hole will need to be drilled out with a No. 66 (0.85mm.) drill and then tapped M1/14BA. The crankpins are available in packs containing sufficient components for 10 wheels - including two long bushes for crankpins which require coupling and connecting rods to be fitted. Additional packs of the individual components - screws, bushes and nuts - are also available.

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OUTSIDE CRANKS FOR LOCOMOTIVES

THESE invaluable components are available as a separate item. They are supplied in a pack containing two cranks and an extended axle. The axle is included as I feel that without it the cranks would be rather useless.

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SCALE HANDRAIL KNOBS

BEFORE the introduction of these items handrail knobs were one of those scale components which proved elusive to obtain. My answer to the problem was to introduce what is probably the most accurate and readily-obtainable 4mm. scale handrail knobs on the market today. They are turned in brass to close tolerances and are drilled to take the 0.45mm. brass wire (see page 78). Comparison with other so-called 'scale' products reveals just how over-scale the others are! To fit them to your locomotives you will need to make holes with a 0.9mm. (No. 65) drill. These handrail knobs are available in three lengths - short, medium and long - for different applications. The short type is for use in locations such as smokebox fronts and cab and tender sides: the medium type is for use on the sides of parallel boilers: and the long type is for use on the sides of tapered boilers mainly GWR.

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COUPLING AND CONNECTING RODS

IMPROVE the appearance of your locomotives by fitting the correct pattern of coupling and connecting rods. Finely etched in nickel silver and designed as a two layer assembly to give a scale thickness. these components have been designed to give the modeller either a plain or fluted style of rod. The coupling rods, which pivot on the crankpins of the middle driving wheels of 0-6-0 or larger locomotives, enable sprung axleboxes or compensating beams to be used. Although a majority of the coupling rods listed are for specific prototypes many can be used for other locomotives having the same wheelbase. However, for locomotives with a wheelbase not included in the lists a Universal set of rods is available - one set being required for a four- or six- coupled chassis and two sets required for either an eight- or ten-coupled chassis. Accuracy is essential when assembling the rods and one of the easiest ways to ensure that coupling rods are made to fit exactly the wheelbase required is to insert Romford driving wheel axles into the chassis and then to assemble the rods onto the threaded portion of these axles - this being the same diameter as the crankpins. It should be noted that, unless otherwise stated, only the coupling rods of locomotives with outside valve gear are provided in these packs - there are no connecting rods or any part of the valve gear.
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Now go to the list and choose your rods.

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LOCOMOTIVE VALVE GEAR

TO complement the range of coupling rods listed on the previous page I have produced a series of valve gear sets for locomotives with outsice valve gear These sets are etched in .018" nickel silver and come complete with connecting rods.

Now go to the list and choose your valve gear.

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SPRUNG PLUNGER PICK UPS

THIS product provides a very efficient method of current collection and only requires a 2.5mm. hole in the mainframes. The design is so compact that pick-ups can be mounted opposite each other, even in standard 00 mainframes. The spring supplied with this item is of a very light compression, resulting in virtually no drag. These pick-ups can be used in both 4mm. and 7mm. scales - for 7mm. the body of the pick up needs to be spaced out from the face of the frame.

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GEARBOXES AND GEARSETS

A SLIM-LINE moulded plastic gearbox which completely encloses a steel worm/brass gearwheel gearset. It is supplied in kit form and comes complete with brass bushes that enable the user to employ motors with a shaft diameter of either 2mm. or 1.5mm. Full assembly instructions are included and with the gearwheel being just 10.2mm. in diameter it can be used on wheelsets down to a minimum diameter of 12mm. (scale 3ft.). The finished gearbox is 7mm wide, 16mm. high, 15mm long and projects just 10mm. above the centre line of the axle. Shaft centre to axle centre is 7.05mm. The gearsets are available as separate items.

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.MOTOR MOUNTING BRACKET

AS an alternative to the gearboxes listed above how about this etched brass motor mounting bracket. It comes complete with a set of my own precision-cut 38-1 gears and includes all the necessary turned brass bearings. This bracket has been designed to accept the popular 5-pole Mashima 1220/1224 and 1626/1628 can motors and together the resulting assembly can be positioned well down between the frames in my new L.M S. Class 5 kit for example there is no projection above the footplate.

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SPRUNG LOCOMOTIVE BUFFERS

MY OWN range of scale sprung locomotive buffers. They are self-contained and have a very light compression rate - the weight of a plastic wagon being enough to make the heads close up. At last, it is possible to re-create the sight of a locomotive buffering up to your stock. The heads are turned from steel for realism and the bodies are machined in brass for strength. This is not intended to be the full range, more are planned - let me know your requirements. They are supplied in packs containing parts for four buffers. The available range is illustrated here.

---Ref--- ----Item----
4901 Midland and Great Central type
4902 Lancashire and Yorkshire type
4903 LMS and BR type with 16" head
4904 GN/LBSCR/NE/GE round base parallel
4905 London and North Western, Webb
4906 GWR, Collett square base, parallel
4907 GWR, Collett square base, tapered
4908 Early Great Western, Dean
4909 LNER/SR stepped parallel, 16" head
4910 LSWR/HR/CR/GSWR, Drummond std.
4911 North Eastern, tapered, 13" head
4912 LNWR, Whale, 13"  head
4913 LNWR, Cooke, 13"  head
4914 Industrial type, 24"  head
4915 Industrial type, 16"  head

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PROFILE MILLED MAINFRAMES

IN ANY locomotive, be it full size or a model, the mainframes play a decisive part in just how well that engine will perform. Accuracy is paramount in their manufacture and in model form, by utilising a process known as profile milling, I have been able to build up a wide selection of frames and also produce them to the precision required. The frames are profiled for use with my own range of sprung hornblocks (although most contemporary hornblock systems can be used) and the grade of brass used for these frames is very rigid and is far more suitable for the purpose than an etching grade of brass or nickel silver. They are supplied in 0.6mm. brass which is just as strong as 1mm. etching grade brass and I endeavour to keep a large selection of frames in stock. However, as most will be produced to order please allow an extra couple of days for delivery. A varied selection of tender frames to a similar design and specification is also available.

These lists show the frames available, first the locomotive frames, then the tender frames.

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A letter in brackets at the end of some mainframes indicates that it has been designed specifically to fit a commercially produced r-t-r locomotive or kit. The key below indicates the manufacturer.

A - Airfix H - Hornby O - M&L V - Wills
B - Anchoridge I - Hornby-Dublo P - NB Models W - Dapol
C - BEC J - K's Q - Nu-Cast X - Jidenco
D - Blacksmiths K - Lima R - Ratio Y - Peter K
E - Craftsman L - Magma S - Ray Rippon  
F - DJH/ModeI Loco M - Mainline T - Weald  
G - Falcon Brass N - Millholme U - Westward  


PROFILE MILLED FRAMES

'One-off' service

In addition to the locomotive and tender frames listed I also offer a one-off service for the same cost. For this you need to supply me with a drawing of the frame you require drawn exactly three times larger than the finished size. The profile of the frame should be exactly as required and should include any cut-outs for hornblocks. etc., and should also include guard irons. It should be drawn so the top of the frame is deemed to finish at footplate level. All frames are supplied with a standard cut-out that will take either my sprung hornblocks or Flexichas parts and on the drawing the axlebox cut-outs should be drawn so that they are 18mm. wide and extend 12mm. above the normal centre line of the axle. This is to ensure that on the finished frame these dimensions will be 6mm. wide and 4mm. above axle centre line. The pivots for the brake hangers should be marked with a cross. Before starting on any drawing it would be advisable to check with me first to see that no one else is producing or has already produced a drawing for the frame you require. After you receive your frames they will then become part of my range and will be included in my lists for general sale.

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LOCOMOTIVE BOILER BANDS

HERE'S another of those essential 'How did I ever manage without them?' items, useful to have in hand in the stores. A sheet of etched brass locomotive boiler bands containing 15 bands, each .006" thick, 75mm. long and 1mm. wide.

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LOCOMOTIVE AND TENDER HORNBLOCKS

AN innovative design of sprung all-metal hornblocks utilising a mix of etched brass and turned brass components. They will enable modellers to fit a full suspension system to any locomotive or tender fitted with suitable frames. Although primarily designed for use in my locomotive kits and also in conjunction with my extensive range of profile milled mainframes these hornblocks can be used with any mainframes that have cut-outs 6mm wide and which extend 4mm above the axle centre line. The springs supplied with this item have a very light compression rate and the weight of an etched brass body is sufficient to compress a set of six hornblocks. A feature worth noting about these hornblocks is that they are fully adjustable. This means that, in an extreme case, a modeller can build a twisted and buckled chassis and still be able to adjust each hornblock individually so that ALL the wheels touch the track - a feature that other forms of compensation cannot give. They are available in packs containing enough components for six hornblocks.

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DE LUXE HORNBLOCKS

For those who need more realistic looking 4mm scale hornblocks I have produced the master for this universal pattern of hornblock. Utilising cast and machined components this hornblock features an exquisitely detailed lost wax casting for the hornblock guides together with an accurately machined adjustable sprung hornblock which is available for either 1/8" or 2mm axles. The keeper plate is also a lost wax brass casting, secured by two machine screws (springs and screws supplied).

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BRASS AXLE BEARINGS

THESE precision machined brass bearings are manufactured to close tolerances and are primarily intended to be used in conjunction with the axles used with my own range of 4mm. scale locomotive wheels. They can, however, be used in complete confidence with any contemporary products.

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LOCOMOTIVE AND TENDER BRAKE GEAR

SETS of injection moulded plastic brake gear that comprise hangers and blocks. They are supplied complete with pieces of straight 0.9mm. diameter brass wire with which to form the pivots in the frames together with 0.45mm. diameter brass wire for the pull rods. The advantages of plastic brake gear are that it can be moulded to the correct thickness and also that the brake blocks can be fitted right up against the tread of the wheel without any fears of the dreaded electrical 'shorts'.

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